The term “fast fashion” is officially mainstream, which is even more reason to understand what it means and how it impacts the future health of the planet.
Let’s examine fast fashion’s negative impacts and what sustainable brands do differently to have a positive impact on people and the planet.
What is fast fashion and why is it a problem?
December 31, 1989. That’s the day the term “fast fashion” was coined. On that day, the New York Times published an article about Zara’s mission to transform a garment from idea to rack in just 15 days. Crazy then. Crazy now!
Mass production. Low cost labor. Getting to retail quickly. These are all the hallmarks of this disruptive approach. And other early adopters, like H&M, Limited and Express, paved the way for mega online retailers like Shein and Temu.
While consumers enjoy lower price tags, more variety, and more turnover in seasonal styles, these advantages hide some ugly secrets.
What are they?
Let’s dig in.
As more and more people worry about the long-term impact of climate change and wonder what you can do differently to ensure the future health of the planet, you’re uncovering these truths about the companies who make the clothes you wear. If you’re one of the many consciously-minded humans asking…
How is clothing made?
Does it have a negative impact on the planet?
Who makes my clothes?
We’ve got answers for you.
Let’s start with the most common question first.
How is fast fashion clothing made?
Unlike high-end designer brands and sustainable clothing brands, fast fashion brands have one major thing in common: They all make clothes as cheaply as possible, using these three outrageous strategies.
Strategy #1: Fast fashion brands rely heavily on countries where labor is cheap.
China manufactures 65% of the world’s clothing. According to the Business and Human Rights Resource Centre, “the minimum wage varies by region, between 1120 RMB (US$161) and 2480 RMB (US$357) per month, falling far short of the estimated living wage of 5410 RMB (US$778) per month.” Bangladesh is the second largest manufacturer of clothing with its garment workers earning just 70 USD per month.
While the cost of living in Bangladesh, India, Vietnam, and other garment-producing countries is certainly lower than it is in the United States, it is well-documented that low-wage factory workers earn far below their living wage standards and do so because of weak labor laws.
More than just poverty wages, weak labor laws mean that garment workers in the Global South work an average of 14 to 16 hours a day. Most work 6 or 7 days a week. They are forced to work overtime to meet production deadlines. They are also forced to live in overcrowded dormitories.
And then there are the cheapest and most evil forms of labor. Forced labor and child labor. It may seem inconceivable that fast fashion brands could get away with employing forced and child labor, but the secret of the fashion industry is that most companies never directly employ anyone! Fashion companies use third-party suppliers and manufacturers to make their products. By hiding these contracts from the public, fast fashion brands can claim ignorance about who is making their clothing and under what conditions.
Strategy #2: Fast fashion brands promote climate change and environmental pollution.
It’s an open secret that the fast fashion industry is a major contributor to climate change with its staggeringly high carbon footprint. Researchers at the University of Manchester found that the fashion industry is responsible for up to 10% of global carbon emissions (The Environmental Price of Fast Fashion). While climate change is arguably the most serious, it certainly isn’t the only environmental problem created by fast fashion. Landfill waste. Water contamination. Soil erosion. The list goes on!
So how exactly does fast fashion contribute to climate change and so many other environmental problems?
Well, fast fashion companies use suppliers that do not employ energy-efficient production methods. Sewing machines require energy, and solar and wind energy cost more than burning fossil fuels. They do not employ waste reduction methods.
Clothing production leaves behind large amounts of cutoffs and scraps. This excess material is not recycled or repurposed. Rather, it’s dumped in landfills, where it slowly decomposes, releases harmful greenhouse gasses like methane and carbon dioxide, and adds to the industry’s carbon footprint.
Fast fashion companies rely on global supply chains, which means long distance travel by air more than sea. They use cheap synthetic, petroleum-based fibers (especially polyester). In fact, the use of polyester has grown 9x in the last 50 years!
Another favorite material, i.e. conventional cotton, involves massive amounts of pesticides and chemicals which pollute our water and soil. Even more water and soil pollution occurs when materials are dyed because dyeing involves toxic chemicals and heavy metals. This ends up in drinking water and our food supply.
Strategy #3: Fast fashion brands promote overconsumption.
Historically, fashion brands have released new products by season. Spring. Summer. Fall. Winter. Four seasons with clothing that can be worn accordingly. However, fast fashion brands have 52 micro seasons, launching new styles weekly with the goal of enticing consumers to buy more clothing than they need.
So fast fashion brands feed overconsumption, and then overconsumption breeds overproduction, all in a nasty cycle that creates a culture of disposable fashion. Whether all of this clothing is discarded by consumers who only wear 20% of their wardrobe 80% of the time or whether fashion brands are the ones discarding the massive amount of clothing that was made but never purchased, it all ends up in a landfill where it too breaks down, releases methane and carbon dioxide and adds even more to the industry’s massive carbon footprint.
Why is sustainable clothing better than fast fashion?
Unlike fast fashion brands, which make clothes as cheaply as possible, sustainable fashion brands make clothing as ‘low-impact’ as possible. This means that sustainable brands actively try to have a minimal negative impact on the planet, and they, too, use these three remarkable strategies to do so.
Strategy #1: Sustainable clothing brands fight climate change and environmental pollution.
While there’s no such thing as a 100% sustainable company, certain production methods are certainly more sustainable and better for people and the planet. Let’s start with manufacturing.
Sustainable brands often partner with solar-powered or wind-powered factories. They select partners who invest in energy efficiency or low/zero-carbon technologies. They select partners who invest in wastewater treatment and water reduction. Because overall waste reduction is a priority, sustainable brands often employ zero-waste or circular design strategies. Recycling. Upcycling. Use of biodegradable or compostable ingredients, packaging, and shipping materials. All of these methods minimize waste.
As far as logistics and transportation go, some sustainable brands work with local suppliers. Others move goods by sea or rail. And some sustainable brands use carbon offsetting. Sustainable brands use eco-friendly materials. Organic cotton. Linen. Bamboo. Hemp. Even synthetic fabrics made from post-consumer waste, such as plastic bottles and ocean plastic, are better than fueling virgin plastic production. There’s even been a major surge in the development of innovative, eco-friendly materials. Banana fiber. Mushroom “leather”. Nettles. Pineapple. Apple cores. Seaweed. All of these plants and plant waste are being used to create luxurious fabrics that have a lower negative impact on the environment.
Strategy #2: Sustainable clothing brands promote responsible consumption.
Sustainable brands are often called ‘slow fashion’ brands because they promote responsible consumption and limit their own overproduction. They do this through small batch production, just-in-time or on-demand production, product recycling programs, and second-hand purchasing options.
Strategy #3: Sustainable clothing brands prioritize ethical business practices and workers’ rights.
Sustainable brands prioritize the welfare of garment workers. They never employ children or forced labor. They ensure workers are paid fair and living wages and work in clean and safe conditions. Some even provide medical insurance and other benefits. They champion transparency by publicly disclosing supply chain data and workers’ pay.
Conclusion
The most significant difference between fast fashion brands and sustainable clothing brands is the most foundational of all.
Fast fashion brands are driven by a singular mission. To increase profits.
Sustainable fashion brands always have a mission that is two-fold.
1) To make clothing in a way that respects the planet and
2) To never prioritize profit over the future health of the planet.
The difference couldn’t be more stark. Or more consequential.
So, if you’re ready to ditch fast fashion, you’ve come to the right place. At The Greatest Good, you can discover and shop thousands of products that have a positive impact on people and the planet.
Be sure to check back often because we will be adding even more brands and products in the future!
